To skate the Rideau Canal is to conquer the fierce February winds, and then succumb to the inevitable muscle aches that sear your legs in the days that follow.

Stretching out at just less then 16 km round-trip (the size of more than 100 hockey rinks laid end-to-end), Ottawa’s Rideau Canal is the world’s largest skating rink. Starting at the base of the copper-peaked Parliament buildings and Chateau Laurier hotel, it then winds through downtown Ottawa, weaving under bridges, alongside parks, and past neighbourhoods of heritage homes, before finally ending at the historic Hartwell Locks. At the Locks, a sign proudly proclaims that skaters have achieved 7.8 km; now they just have to skate all the way back.

Originally built in 1832 as a supply route between Montreal and Kingston, today the Rideau is the oldest functioning canal in North America. In the summer months, the Rideau Canal is in full operation, with many of the locks still relying on old-fashioned muscle power to guide boats through.

In 2007, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its design, construction, and role in Canadian history. Yet, it is in the winter with the commencement of Rideau Canal skating, that it really comes to life when transformed into the world’s most famous ice rink.

The crowd throngs when you start skating the Rideau Canal, and the ice is rough and difficult to manoeuvre. But a few metres in, after the crowd thins out and the Parliament buildings recede into the distance, the ice turns silky smooth, which is the result of nightly flooding and constant maintenance by the National Capital Commission.

Along the way, every kilometre or so, pine trees, picnic tables and fire pits pop up like oases, offering rest and shelter from the burn in your legs and wind on your face. Food kiosks resembling log cabins serve apple cider and hot chocolate, hot dogs and poutine. But by far the most popular food item is the beaver tail—a fried dough pastry smothered in your choice of cinnamon, maple butter, chocolate, or garlic and cheese. The smell of deep-fried dough permeates the length of the Canal.

Once rested and fed, continue onwards, beneath bridges and archways and past the artists selling paintings of Canadian winters. Further on, you will reach Dow’s Lake, where the narrow Canal opens up into a windswept tundra of ice and snow, before tucking back into the shelter of trees and working its way towards the locks.

Despite the length of the Canal, the end comes abruptly, and though your legs are tired, it’s sad to see the final marker indicating the end. Time to loop around it, and skate back!

When to Go Rideau Canal Skating

The best time to skate the Rideau Canal is in January and February, when the weather is at its coldest and the Canal is fully frozen.

During the first three weekends in February, Ottawa hosts the annual Winterlude Festival, with ice sculptures, snow carving contests, outdoor dance parties, and prix-fixe (fixed price) menus at local restaurants. But remember, the second Monday in February is a Family Day holiday in Ontario, which means Ottawa and the Canal are extremely crowded for that entire weekend. The extra people creates a lively atmosphere, especially when you throw in all the Winterlude activities, but be prepared for booked-up hotels, long line-ups at cafes and restaurants, and lots of children whipping past you on the Canal.

Odds n’ Ends

• Wear lots of layers. Ottawa can be very cold and windy, but you may get quite warm as you’re skating.
• Remember that the Rideau Canal is 8 km long one-way, and however far you go, you’ll have to skate back just as far. Bring a backpack with boots to change into so that you can take off your skates if you get too tired.
• Bring money with you; skating on the Canal is free, but the rink is lined with treat stands offering hot chocolate, apple cider, beaver tail pastries, maple taffy, and other Canadian winter goodies that will tempt you along the way.
• Check the ice conditions before you go. The city of Ottawa monitors the conditions daily, as do most hotels. Remember that the Canal is not a man-made rink, and as such, the skating season and ice conditions can change from year-to-year, or even day-to-day, depending on the weather.
• Hockey sticks are not permitted on the Canal.

Places to Eat

Le Moulin de Provence

Bustling French bakery in historic Byward Market, offering homemade breads, decadent pastries, and fresh salads. Perhaps most famous for its “Obama cookies” (shortbread in the shape of a maple leaf), named in honour of a 2009 visit and cookie purchase by the U.S. president.

The Grand Pizzeria and Bar

Offering authentic, award-winning Napoletana pizza, paninis, and homemade pastas.

Places to Stay

Chateau Laurier

One of Canada’s most famous hotels, located at the head of the Rideau Canal and overlooking the Parliament Buildings, the Ottawa River, and Byward Market.

This article originally appeared on thecircumference.org.